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Bora-Care is the Bradenton homeowner’s best friend because our air feels like a steam room nine months out of the year and termites/mold treat that like an all-you-can-eat buffet. Florida sits at the top spot for termite risk in the U.S., and wood can start growing mold within 24–48 hours when it stays damp. If you’ve got wood framing, you’ve got targets.
Key Takeaways
- One-and-done wood protection: Bora-Care diffuses into raw wood and stays put. No quarterly re-sprays on the frame.
- Kills and prevents: Pairing with Mold-Care wipes out existing mold/fungi and blocks new growth during normal drying cycles.
- Florida-proven: Field data from high-pressure markets (including Florida) shows 90%+ of treated structures remain termite-free for 5+ years when label rates and coverage are met.
- Code-friendly for new builds: Florida builders use borate pretreats as an approved primary termite treatment. You still get your pretreat certificate at closing.
- Cleaner footprint: Treats the wood, not the soil. No trenching hundreds of gallons. Low odor. Low mammal toxicity.
- No-tent option: For many drywood infestations in attics/wall voids, targeted borate treatments can replace or reduce the need for tenting.
- Best results = good mixing + full coverage: Warm water, mechanical mixing, correct ratios, and wet-to-surface application matter a lot.
Why Bradenton Homes Need This
- Termites love our zip codes: Warm, damp, sandy soils keep colonies active nearly year-round. Formosan and subterranean species are common attackers.
- Mold loves stalled drying: Summer afternoon storms + AC off during construction/weekends = wet studs and sheathing.
- Rot follows moisture: Brown/white rot fungi can quietly chew strength out of joists and sill plates.
What the products do:
- Bora-Care (disodium octaborate tetrahydrate): Soaks into wood fibers. When termites/beetles/carpenter ants feed, their gut microbes fail and the colony starves out. It also knocks out wood-decay fungi on contact.
- Mold-Care: A quaternary ammonium moldicide added to Bora-Care solution to kill existing mold/mildew and lock down treated surfaces against regrowth while the structure dries.
Where These Treatments Shine Around Bradenton
1) New Construction Termite Pretreat (residential + commercial)
- Applied at the “dried-in” stage (roof on, framing exposed).
- Focus on the first 24–36 inches above slab/foundation: sill plates, studs, headers, band/rim joists, floor systems.
- Builders like it because: one trip, no coordination with slab pour, and no soil chemical drift.
- Typical outcome: pretreat certificate for closing + first-year termite warranty from the licensed operator.
2) Whole-Home Wood Protection
- Many projects go beyond the base: treat all accessible raw framing (attic, interior walls before drywall, garage, porch ceilings).
- Helps with carpenter ants and wood-boring beetles, not just termites.
- Pair it with sealing/paint on exposed exterior wood to lock borate in long-term.
3) No-Tent Drywood Termite Work
- Attics, soffits, wall voids: spray, foam, or inject galleries.
- Great for families avoiding tent move-out, food bagging, plant removal, and pet boarding.
- Bonus: leaves residual protection in the treated wood—something fumigation doesn’t do.
4) Mold Remediation After Leaks or Flooding
- Post-demo, post-dry-out: spray Bora-Care + Mold-Care on studs/subfloors/joists.
- Knocks down spores now and slows comeback when humidity spikes later.
- Popular after tropical storms, supply-line breaks, or AC condensate failures.
5) Crawl Spaces & Humid Attics
- Treat fungal spotting/incipient rot on joists and roof decking, then add moisture control (vents right, drainage, dehumidifier if needed).
- Reduced decay = fewer “open invitations” for termites.
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Request a QuoteMixing Ratios, Coverage, and Pro Tips
Bora-Care (without Mold-Care)
- Most remedial termite/beetle jobs: 1:1 (1 gallon concentrate + 1 gallon hot water).
- Preventative on new wood: label allows 2:1 to 5:1 (water:concentrate) for broader coverage on lower-risk areas; many pros still favor 1:1 on sill plates/rim/bottom plates.
- Coverage: real-world range ~300–500 sq ft of surface per finished gallon depending on wood species (Southern yellow pine drinks more), surface roughness, and moisture content.
- Application: low-pressure sprayer or brush to wetness on all exposed sides. Foaming and gallery injection for drywoods.
- Drying window: typical re-entry once dry to the touch (often 4–6 hours with ventilation).
Bora-Care + Mold-Care (co-pack)
- Common batch: 1 gallon Bora-Care + 1 pint Mold-Care + ~5 gallons water (mechanically mixed).
- Expect ~6+ gallons finished solution for broad surface sanitizing.
- Apply to a light sheen without runoff for even coverage.
- Target: studs, plates, subfloor, roof decking, stair stringers—anything raw and cellulosic in the affected zone.
Mixing/Equipment Tips We Use In-House
- Use hot water and a drill-mounted impeller or paddle mixer. Bora-Care is syrupy; hand-shaking wastes time and leaves clumps.
- Mark framing runs and tally gallons before you start to avoid “light spots.”
- Vent fans in attics/crawl spaces shorten dry time and keep odor minimal.
- If exterior wood may get wet, prime/paint after cure to prevent leaching.
Safety, Labels, and Florida Rules (Plain English)
- Approved termite pretreat: Borate wood treatments qualify as a primary method in Florida.
- Licensed applicator required for pretreat certificates and warranties. Homeowners can buy Bora-Care for small projects, but code work must come from a licensed operator.
- Label basics: raw wood only (no sealed/painted surfaces), not for saturated/frozen wood, not for direct soil contact, and keep it out of ponds/drains during application.
- Low odor: a light glycol scent during application; fades as it dries.
- Pets/kids: keep out during application and drying; after cure the active is locked in the wood matrix.
Local Snapshot: Who’s Using It
- Good News Pest Solutions (Bradenton/Sarasota): leans “green,” offers borate pretreats and WDO inspections.
- Acme Termite & Pest (Bradenton): advertises borate applications and no-tent options.
- Gardenmasters (Venice/Bradenton): moved away from orange oil after weak results; reports stronger outcomes with borates.
- Regional chains (Massey, Truly Nolen, Arrow/Hughes) offer borate treatments on select services across Manatee/Sarasota.
Real-World Results We See
- Longevity: once Bora-Care dries inside raw wood, it doesn’t volatilize or break down.
- Call-back reduction: when label rates and full coverage are hit, treated zones rarely need rework.
- Construction timing: rain showers don’t derail schedules like soil treatments do; we can treat dried-in framing and keep your build moving.
- After storms: Mold-Care add-in helps keep rebuilt sections clean when summer humidity returns.
Costs: What Bradenton Owners Usually Ask
- Pretreat borate jobs often price higher than a bare-bones soil spray on day one, but you’re treating a fraction of the volume with a product that stays in the lumber.
- For remedial work (drywood in attic, crawl space fungus), pricing hinges on square footage of raw wood we can access and the mixing strength required.
- Either way, you should still do annual inspections. Borates protect the wood they touch; termites can follow plumbing lines, foam insulation, or find untreated cellulose if it exists.
Quick Owner Tips (Make Your Treatment Work Harder)
- Keep grade and mulch a few inches below the slab edge/siding.
- Fix gutter splash and AC condensate drainage so sill plates stay dry.
- If you open new areas (renovation), treat the fresh cuts.
- Seal/paint exterior raw wood after cure if it will see rain.
- Schedule a yearly WDO check—catch plumbing drips and shelter tubes early.
Frequently Asked Questions (FAQs)
Does Bora-Care replace tenting?
Often for localized drywood problems, yes. For whole-structure, heavy, multi-zone infestations, tenting may still be the fastest reset. We inspect and tell you straight.
How long until we can go back in?
Once treated surfaces are dry to the touch—commonly 4–6 hours with ventilation.
Will it stop mold forever?
Mold-Care kills what’s there and cuts off the easy comeback on treated wood. If a roof leak or flood keeps wood wet, any surface can grow spores again—fix moisture and you’re good.
Can it be applied to painted wood?
No. It needs raw, unsealed wood to penetrate. We can strip/plane small areas or drill/foam when that makes sense.
Is it safe around pets and aquariums?
Keep them out during application/drying. Don’t spray near tanks or drains. Once cured in the wood, it’s stable.
What about deck posts or wood touching soil?
Not for direct soil contact. Treat, let it cure, then seal and isolate from soil with proper hardware/flashing.
Do I still need a termite bond/warranty?
Yes. Inspections keep the bond active and catch any oddball entry points that don’t involve eating your framing.